GLOSSARY OF CUSTOM APPAREL TERMS

Find Explanations of Shirt Sizes, Styles of Shirts and Jackets, Materials Used in Apparel, Production Methods, and Many Other Details About Custom Apparel

Texas Branders supplies a variety of apparel for men and women. From hats and caps to socks, we can supply it. Frequently the specifications and features can be confusing or downright unfamiliar:

"Zipper garage"?
"4-needle stitching"?
"Bartack"?
"Princess Seam"?
"Athleisure"
"DryZone Technology"
"DryVent Technology"

These are just a few of the terms that are defined and explained below. We hope it helps you when trying to determine the best apparel for your needs.

1x1 Rib Knit

This narrow rib has a soft, fine hand and retains its slim fit.

2x1 Rib Knit

Textured rib knit with a comfortable stretch—made to be worn alone or layered.

2-Way Zipper

A zipper with two zipper pulls so the garment can be unzipped from either direction.

3-in-1 Jacket

A jacket that consists of two jacket layers that zip together. You can wear either jacket layer separately, or zip them together for extra warmth and weather protection.

4-Needle Stitching

A finish commonly used on a sleeve or bottom hem that uses four needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching, giving the garment a cleaner, more finished look, as well as adding durability.

4-Way Stretch

A fabric that stretches both on the crosswise and lengthwise grains of the fabric. Also called mechanical stretch, except mechanical stretch doesn’t use spandex or other stretch yarns.

Air Jet Yarn

A type of open-end spinning that uses a stationary tube in which jets of air are directed to cause fibers to twist thereby forming a yarn. This process definitely influences the soft hand feel of the fabric while maintaining excellent resistance to pilling.

Airlume Combed and Ring Spun Cotton (BELLA+CANVAS)

100% Airlume combed and ring spun cotton, 32 singles. BELLA+CANVAS removes 2.5x more impurities than standard ring spun cotton and uses only long cotton staples, which means there are fewer stray fibers when the yarn is spun, resulting in a smoother print surface.

All-Weather Microfiber

Fabric that is tightly woven from an extremely fine poly thread with a sueded finish for a luxuriously supple feel. When combined with waterproof coating and full seam sealing, microfiber is 100% waterproof. 100% polyester.

ANSI

The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) is an organization that promotes standards for industry and government.

(Click here to see examples of ANSI apparel.)

ANSI Class 2

An ANSI designation for garments that are intended for activities where greater visibility is necessary during inclement weather. It also covers workers who perform tasks that divert their attention from approaching traffic or puts them in close proximity to vehicles traveling 25 mph or higher.

ANSI Class 3

An ANSI designation for garments that provide the highest level of visibility and are intended for workers who face more serious hazards than Class 2. Antimicrobial. A term used for a garment that is able to resist, either naturally or chemically, the effects of microbial secretions put off by the human body, resisting odor and increasing garment life.

Anti-Pill Finish

A treatment applied to garments primarily to resist the formation of little balls on the fabric’s surface due to abrasion during wear. See Pilling.

Arc Rating

A value of the energy necessary to pass through any given fabric to cause with 50% probability a second- or third-degree burn. This value is measured in calories/cm2. Simply put, the Arc rating determines the protective characteristics of the fabric. The higher the Arc rating value, the greater the protection.

Articulation

A design detail usually in the shoulders, elbows or knees where limbs bend to increase mobility for greater ease of movement.

ATPV

Stands for Arc Thermal Protective Value: a rating of the Arc burn protection capability of a garment. The higher the Arc rating, the more protection a garment gives because it has a higher resistance to catching on fire. The ATPV is expressed in calories/cm2 and represents the thermal exposure from an electric arc that will create a second-degree burn in human tissue.

Athleisure

The movement where clothing designed for athletics is worn outside the gym to the office or to socialize.

Baby Pique Knit

A knitting method that creates a fine, small textured surface that appears similar to a very small waffle weave. See Pique Knit.

Back Yoke

A piece of fabric that connects the back of a garment to the shoulders. This allows the garment to lay flat and drape nicely.

Bartack

To reinforce a seam with a bar of stitches, providing a more durable seam end. Commonly used at stress points.

Base Layer

Worn next to the skin, a base layer wicks sweat and keeps the wearer drier and more comfortable.

Bias Cut

A technique used by designers for cutting clothing to utilize the greater stretch in the “bias” or diagonal direction of the fabric, thereby causing it to accentuate body lines and curves and drape softly.

Blanket Stitch

A decorative stitch often used to finish an unhemmed blanket. The stitch can be seen on both sides of the blanket.

Blend

A yarn or a fabric that is made up of more than one type of fiber.

Blind Stitch Hem

A sewing stitch producing stitches visible on one side only.

Bonded Fleece

Multiple layers of fleece are bonded together to form a higher functioning garment.

Bonding

The technique of permanently joining together two fabrics or layers of fabrics together by a bonding agent into one unit.

Box Pleat

A single, uniform fold in the center back of a garment to allow for more room and comfort.

Breathability

The movement of air from one side of the fabric to the other to keep the wearer comfortable. The breathability rating is typically expressed in a gram measurement of how much vapor a square meter (G/M2) of fabric will allow to pass in a 24-hour period (typically, 1,000G/M2 to 10,000000G/M2). Generally, the higher the number, the more breathable the garment.

Brushed

A finishing process for knit or woven fabrics in which brushes or other abrading devices are used to raise a nap on fabrics or create a novelty surface texture.

Button-Down Collar

Found on many men’s dress wovens, where the collar’s wings can be buttoned to the front of the shirt, minimizing the spread between the wings.

Button-Through Sleeve Placket

A small placket located near the end of the sleeve, by the cuff, which contains a single button closure.

CamoHex (Sport-Tek)

A sublimated digital camouflage that uses small hexagons in a tonal pattern.

(Click to see some CamoHex examples.)

Carded Ring Spun Cotton

Carded yarns have not been combed. They contain a wider range of fiber lengths and, as a result, are not as uniform or as strong as combed yarns.

Carhartt Force® (Carhartt)

Gear that combines over 130 years of hands-on experience with the mightiest heat-defying tech in a shirt. Features FastDry® sweatwicking technology, plus odor-fighting abilities.

Casual Microfiber

Tightly woven fabric from a very fine polyester thread, usually with a sueded finish for a soft feel. Inherently water repellent and wind resistant due to its construction. 100% polyester microfiber.

Category 2 Protection (Bulwark)

Arc-rated flame-resistant (FR) long sleeve shirt and FR pants or FR coverall with a required minimum ATPV (Arc Thermal Protective Value) of 8 cal/cm2.

Chambray

A plain woven fabric that can be made from silk or manufactured fibers, but is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a colored warp and white filling yarns.

Chin guard

A fold of soft fabric around the end of the zipper that helps prevent abrasion. Also known as a zipper garage.

Coil (OGIO)

A metallic colored coil zipper.

Collar

The upright or turned-over neckband of a coat, jacket or shirt.

Collar Stand

On a woven shirt, the collar stand is around the neck and placed between the actual collar and the shirt. This stand raises the collar so its finished edge will fall smoothly back over the neck edge.

Collective System (Port Authority)

A versatile system of outerwear styles that can be customized to meet a variety of climates and uniforming needs.

Colorfast

A dyed fabric’s ability to resist fading due to washing, exposure to sunlight and other environmental conditions.

Combed Ring Spun Cotton

A process by which the short fibers of a yarn are removed and the remaining longer fibers are arranged in parallel order for a highquality yarn with excellent strength, fineness and uniformity.

Cord Locks

A stopper or toggle on a drawcord that keeps the cord from retracting into the garment.

Corduroy

A cut filling pile cloth with narrow to wide ribs. Usually made of cotton, but can be found in polyester and other synthetic blends.

Cotton

Soft vegetable fiber obtained from the seedpod of the cotton plant.

Cotton Count

A measure of thread density. It is the amount of thread measured in “hanks” (840 yards) needed to create one pound. With this system, the higher the number, the finer the yarn. In the United States, a cotton count between one and 20 is referred to as course counts. A regular single knit t-shirt can be between 15-18 count and a fashion tee is usually in the 30-40 count range.

Cotton Jersey (Alternative)

Alternative’s cotton jersey is made from 100% washed cotton for a distinctly soft, beautifully simple product that is rich in color and velvety smooth to the touch.

Coverseamed

A finish in which two needles are used to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It is used around the neck, armholes, waistband and wrists of garments to create a cleaner, more durable finish.

Critically Seam-Sealed

Select (or critical) seams are taped with waterproof tape. This helps prevent moisture from getting in through the seams where it is most likely to occur—such as the shoulders, armholes or hood.

Cuff

The part of the sleeve encircling the wrist. Also the turned-back hem of a trouser leg.

CVC (Chief Value Cotton)

In a cotton/polyester blended yarn, the amount of cotton fiber makes up over 50% of the blend. CVC shirts are often an attractive lowerpriced option to traditional cotton/polyester/modal tri-blend shirts.

Deboss

To depress below the surrounding fabric surface for decoration or lettering. Often confused with embossing which is to raise in relief from a surface.

Denier

A system of measuring the weight of a continuous filament fiber. The lower the number, the finer the fiber; the higher the number, the heavier the fiber.

Diamond Era (New Era)

Inspired by the iconic fabric used in their famous baseball caps, this textured fabric wicks moisture and resists snags.

(Click here to see examples of Diamond Era apparel.)

Dobby

A decorative weave, usually geometric, that is woven into the fabric. Standard dobby fabrics are usually flat and relatively fine or sheer.

Dolman Sleeve

A sleeve tapered from a very large armhole to fit closely at the wrist. Usually cut in one piece with the body of the garment.

Double Knit

A circular knit fabric knitted via double stitch on a double needle frame to provide a double thickness.

Double-Needle Stitching

A finish commonly used on a sleeve or bottom hem that uses two needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching, giving the garment a cleaner, more finished look, as well as adding durability.

Down

The soft, fluffy under feathers of ducks and geese. Serves as an excellent outerwear thermal insulator.

Dri-FIT (NIKE)

Fabric that helps keep the wearer comfortable and dry by moving perspiration from the skin, through the layers of fabric, to the outside layer for rapid evaporation across the outer surface area.

Dri-Mesh® Polyester

The double layer mesh construction releases heat and sweat, while maintaining breathability. 100% polyester double mesh. Drop Needle. A knit fabric characterized by vertical lines within the cloth. Manufactured by dropping a needle from the knitting cylinder. Drop Tail. A longer back than front for the purpose of keeping the shirt tucked in. Also referred to as Extended Tail.

(Click here to see examples of Dri-Mesh Polyester.)

DryVent™ (The North Face)

Styles that are engineered to be fully waterproof, windproof and breathable.

(Click here to see examples of DryVent apparel.)

Dry Zone® Technology

A double-layer polyester fabrication that wicks moisture away from the body.

(Click here to see examples of Dry Zone Technology apparel.)

Duck Cloth

Tightly woven, plain-weave, bottom-weight fabric with a hard, durable finish that provides wind and snag resistance.

DWR

Durable water repellent. A DWR treatment involves applying a coating to a jacket’s outermost fibers to prevent precipitation from saturating the jacket's exterior.

Dyed-To-Match

A term which characterizes buttons or trims that are the same color as the garment onto which they are sewn.

Easy Care

In general, woven shirts with a 60/40 cotton/polyester blend that perform with attributes like wrinkle resistance or stain release.

(Click here for examples of Easy Care apparel.)

Eco-Jersey (Alternative)

This classic medium-weight jersey features a signature vintage-soft feel and is made from eco ingredients, including recycled polyester, organic cotton and rayon yarns.

{Click here to see examples of Eco-Jersey Alternative apparel.)

Eco-Fleece (Alternative)

Alternative’s iconic medium-weight Eco-Fleece is knit on machines calibrated to replicate a vintage-soft look and feel.

EcoSmart® (Hanes)

50/50 cotton/poly blend tees and sweatshirts made with up to 5% recycled polyester from plastic bottles.

Enzyme Washed

A laundering process in which a catalytic substance is added to create a chemical change in the fabric resulting in a very soft finish, smoother appearing surface and reduced shrinkage.

Epaulet

An ornamental fabric strip or loop sewn across the shoulder of a shirt, dress or coat.

Ergonomic

Design elements incorporated into a garment to improve the design by enhancing the wearer’s comfort, performance or health.

EXCEL FR® ComforTouch® (Bulwark)

This practical 88/12 cotton/nylon blend provides long-lasting protection for nearly all work environments. Applications include ferrous metals, electrical utilities and the chemical, oil, gas and petrochemical industries. Every EXCEL FR ComforTouch garment is engineered to provide flame resistance for the life of the garment.

Extended Tail

A longer back than front for the purpose of keeping the shirt tucked in. Also referred to as Drop Tail.

Eyelets

Small holes or perforations made in a series to allow for breathability. Finished with either stitching or brass grommets.

EZCotton®

Soft, smooth and durable 100% cotton pique that resists shrinking, wrinkling, pilling and fading.

FastDry® (Carhartt)

Carhartt’s technology that wicks away sweat away from the body for instant evaporation.

Featherweight French Terry™ (District)

Vintage-inspired styles made of 70/30 combed ring spun cotton/poly French terry, 40 singles.

Fill Power

The measure of the loft or “fluffiness” of a down garment that is loosely related to the insulating value of the down. The higher the fill power, the more trapped air an ounce of the down can trap, and thus the more insulating ability an ounce of the down will have.

Firm Duck (Carhartt)

Carhartt’s strongest cotton duck. The most durable canvas out there. Built with added toughness, firm duck is water-repellent, wind-resistant and rugged. If you want to break in your jacket and pants, firm duck is for you.

Flame-Resistant (FR)

These fabrics and garments are intended to resist ignition, prevent the spread of flames away from the immediate area of high heat impingement and to self-extinguish almost immediately upon removal of an ignition source. FR clothing is NOT fireproof.

Flat Back Mesh (Sport-Tek RacerMesh)

A double-ply polyester knit fabric consisting of an open-hole mesh layer with a polyester layer behind to make it “flat back”. You get the breathability of mesh without showing any skin.

Flat Collar/Cuffs

A single ply fabric with a finished edge that is used for collars and cuffs on sport shirts and short sleeve garments. Also known as welt.

Flatlock Stitching

Made by bringing two raw fabric edges together and covering them with machine stitching. Often used in activewear.

Flexfit®

The original stretchable hat featuring Flexfit stretchable sweatband technology.

FlexVent Suspension System (The North Face)

Backpacks with custom injectionmolded shoulder straps and a padded mesh back panel with a spine channel for maximum support and ventilation.

Flowy Poly-Viscose (BELLA+CANVAS)

65/35 poly/viscose, 32 singles. This material has an extremely soft, silky hand that feels like an elevated fabric that you find in retail stores. Flowy styles drape away from the body, giving it that slightly oversized fit.

French Cuff

A shirt cuff that is folded back before fastening, creating a doublelayered cuff.

French Placket

A button-front shirt without a separate pieced placket. The fabric is simply folded over and the buttonhole stitching secures the two layers. This method affords a very clean finish.

French Terry Cotton

The knit jersey version of terry cloth. It features loops of pile on one side and a smooth, brushed finish on the other for softness and a lived-in, vintage look.

Full Cut

Refers to a garment's fit as being generous and roomy.

Fully Fashioned

A garment that’s knitted to fit the shape of the body.

Fully Seam-Sealed

Every seam throughout the jacket is sealed with waterproof tape to help prevent water from leaking in.

Garment-Dyed

A dyeing process that occurs after the garment has been cut, sewn and assembled.

Garment Washed

A wash process where softeners are added to finished garments to help the cotton fibers relax. The result is a fabric with a thicker appearance, reduced shrinkage and a softer hand.

Gingham

Cotton cloth that has a pattern of colored squares on a white surface.

Grosgrain

A firm, closely woven fabric with narrow horizontal stripes. Commonly used for ribbons, neckties and trimmings. Hand. Quality or characteristic of fabrics perceived by sense of touch—softness, firmness or drapeability.

Heatseeker (The North Face)

Synthetic insulation that provides additional warmth.

Heather CVC (BELLA+CANVAS)

52/48 Airlume combed and ring spun cotton/poly, 32 singles. Chief Value Cotton (CVC) refers to a cotton and polyester blend with a heavier percentage of cotton. The polyester blend gives a subtle, textured look to a lightweight tee with a supersoft hand.

Heritage Blend (New Era)

A 60/40 ring spun combed cotton/poly blend that creates an unbelievably soft tee with the comfort of a past era.

Herringbone

A chevron or zig-zag pattern knit into fabric. Commonly used in golf shirts and twill shirts.

High Profile

A term used for a cap or hat silhouette that is less fitted to the head with a high slope. Usually structured with buckram or other stiff fabric lining.

Hook and Loop

A fastener closure system. The rough side is called the hook. Its softer mate is called loop. The hooks engage into the loop and provide the closure. Colloquially known as VELCRO®.

Horn Tone Buttons

Buttons that appear to be manufactured from horn. Houndstooth. A medium-sized broken check effect that is knit into the fabric.

IL50 (Industrial Laundry)

Signifies that a garment has been tested through 50 industrial launderer washes.

Insulated Jacket

A jacket designed to hold body heat close and buffer surrounding cold air. Down, fleece and synthetic fibers are common insulators. Insulation levels help determine warmth ratings.

Interlock Knit

A two-ply fabric knit simultaneously to form one thicker and heavier ply. It has more natural stretch than a jersey knit, a soft hand, and the same appearance and feel on both sides. Commonly used in knit shirts and turtlenecks.

Jacquard Knit

Often an intricate pattern knit directly into the fabric during the manufacturing process. Typically, two or more colors are used.

Jersey Knit

The consistent interloping of yarns in the jersey stitch to produce a fabric with a smooth, flat face and a more textured, but uniform back.

Jock Tag (New Era)

A rectangular piece of woven fabric located at the hem of athletic jerseys.

Kangaroo Pocket (Alternative)

Another name for a front pouch pocket in a sweatshirt or t-shirt. Called a split kangaroo pocket in a full-zip garment.

Lap Shoulders (Rabbit Skins)

A detail in infant tees and bodysuits in which the fabric overlaps at the neckline and shoulders for easier changing.

Linen

A fabric made from linen fibers obtained from inside the woody stem of the flax plant. Linen fibers are much stronger and more lustrous than cotton. Linen fabrics are very cool and absorbent, but wrinkle easily, unless blended with manufactured fibers.

Locker Loop

A looped piece of fabric in the neck of a garment for the convenience of hanging the garment on a hook. Can also be located at the center of the back yoke on the inside or outside of a garment.

Locker Patch

A semi-oval panel sewn into the inside back portion of a garment, just under the collar seam to reinforce the garment and minimize stretching when hung on a hook. The patch also allows for the garment tag or label to be sewn below the neckline to help prevent irritation.

Low Impact Technology (L.I.T.™) (Eddie Bauer)

A dyeing technology that uses significantly less dyestuffs, thermal energy and water yet achieves the same results as conventional dyeing methods. L.I.T. enhances softness, performance and aftercare quality.

Low Profile

A term used for a cap or hat silhouette that is more closely fitted to the head. Can be either structured or unstructured.

Marble (BELLA+CANVAS)

91/9 poly/Airlume combed and ring spun cotton, 32 singles. This fabric has great dimension and is awesome for graphic tees. It has a really soft hand and cool texture.

Matte Taslan

A durable and water repellent nylon fabric, used mainly in outerwear garments. Same properties and hand as traditional Taslan, but with a dull, matte finish.

Melange

A mix of different colors of yarns knit together to create a heathered effect.

Mesh

A type of fabric characterized by its net-like open appearance and the spaces between the yarns. Mesh is available in a variety of constructions, including wovens, knits, laces or crocheted fabrics.

Microfiber

Tightly woven fabric from a very fine polyester thread, usually with a sueded finish for a soft feel. Inherently water repellent and wind resistant due to its construction.

Microfleece

Crafted from ultra-fine yarn, this lightweight, high-density fleece is brushed less than a regular fleece garment for softness and warmth without bulk.

Mid-Layer

Worn over the base layer, this layer traps warm air, breathes and helps maintain body heat.

Mid Profile

A term used for a cap or hat silhouette that is in between that of a High Profile and Low Profile. Most often structured with buckram.

Mitten Cuffs (OGIO Endurance)

Cuffs that fold over (like mittens) to completely cover the hands for additional warmth.

(Click here to see mitten cuff samples.)

Modern Stretch Cotton

A breathable fabric made from a blend of cotton and spandex to provide a flattering stretch. 96% cotton. 4% spandex.

Moisture Wicking

Moisture-wicking is an innovative technology in specific materials to get rid of sweat from the skin and clothing. By making use of capillary action, it moves the sweat to the external surface area of the garment where it evaporates.

(Click here to see examples of Moisture Wicking apparel.)

Nailhead

A jacquard knitting pattern in which the jacquard forms a design similar to small nail heads.

Nap

A fuzzy, fur-like feel created when fiber ends extend from the basic fabric structure to the fabric surface. The fabric can be napped on one or both sides.

Neckband

A strip of fabric sewn around the inside of the neck in a woven shirt.

NFPA® 2112 Compliant (Bulwark)

Bulwark Protective Apparel offers flameresistant protective garments that are certified by Underwriters Laboratories to meet the requirements of NFPA 2112 Standard on Flame-Resistant Garments for Protection of Industrial Personnel Against Flash Fire, 2012 Edition. NFPA 2113 Standard on Selection, Care, Use and Maintenance of Flame-Resistant Garments for Protection of Industrial Personnel Against Flash Fire, 2018 Edition, requires that garments cover the upper and lower body and flammable underlayers as completely as possible. Bulwark garments meet this requirement either as a single garment such as a coverall or when worn with another certified garment such as a shirt or pants to provide both upper and lower body coverage.

Non-Iron

A term characterizing fabric that has been chemically treated to resist wrinkles, eliminating the need for ironing.

Nublend® Fleece (JERZEES®)

A combined knitting and spinning process developed by JERZEES for the prevention of pilling.

(Click here to see some Nublend Fleece examples.)

Nylon

A synthetic fiber with high strength and abrasion resistance, low absorbency and good elasticity.

Odor-Resistant

Anti-odor technology captures and blocks or kills odor-causing bacteria that comes from the body. It neutralizes the bacteria before it interacts with sweat, reducing the amount of body odor. When bacteria can't mix with the moisture from sweat, odors vanish.

Open-End Cotton

Open end (OE) spinning is a technology to make yarns without a spindle. OE yarns have less twist but a more uniform, abrasion-resistant surface and are produced at much faster speeds than other spinning technologies. Fabrics made from OE yarns generally have a cleaner appearance but are less soft than garments made with ring spun yarns.

Ottoman

A tightly woven, horizontal raised rib textured knit.

Outer Layer

Worn over the base and mid-layers, this layer resists water and wind and has comfortable stretch for mobility.

Overdyed

A process in which yarn-dyed fabrics or piece-dyed garments are put through an additional dye color to create unique colors.

Oxford

A fine, lightweight woven cotton or cotton blend fabric with a 2x1 basket weave variation. Typically used for dress shirts.

Patch Pocket

A pocket attached to the outside of a garment.

Peached

A soft hand usually obtained by brushing or sanding the fabric lightly. Can be achieved with chemical or laundry abrasion to give the surface a velvet-like appearance and softness.

Peak Lapel

Traditionally the most formal of blazer lapels, it’s defined by edges pointing upwards to the wearer’s shoulders.

Pearlized Buttons

Buttons that have a pearl-colored hue.

Perfect Blend® (District)

A 50/50 blend of ring spun combed cotton and poly which makes Perfect Blend tees as good or better than the finest purebred.

Perfect Tri® (District)

50/25/25 poly/ring spun combed cotton/rayon. The undeniably perfect combination of exceptional softness and laid-back style.

Perfect Weight® Cotton (District)

This extra-fine gauge 32 singles 100% ring spun combed cotton yarn is known for its lightweight softness. It’s then compacted to 4.3 ounces for long-term durability and shrink resistance. The result is garments that look and feel perfect wear after wear.

Performance Fabrics

Generally, 100% polyester fabric with technology that wicks moisture, resists snags, stains or odors. It “performs” in some way.

(Click here to see some Performance Fabric Apparel examples.)

Pewter Buttons

Buttons that have a dull, metallic hue. Picot. A series of small embroidered loops forming an ornamental edging on some ribbon and lace.

Pewter and Horn Tone Buttons-

Buttons that incorporate pewter and horn tone. Usually one encompasses the other.

Piece Dyed

A dyeing process that occurs when the fabric is in yardage form after it has been knitted or woven, but before the garment is assembled.

Pigment-Dyed

A type of dye process using ground pigment. The pigments are insoluble, so they are locked into the fabric with a silicon wash. The irregular absorption and saturation of pigment creates a distressed or washed look. This method coats the outside of the material and does not actually dye it.

(Click here to check out some pigment dyed hats.)

Pilling

A tangled ball of fibers that appears on the surface of a fabric as a result of wear or continued friction or rubbing on the surface of the fabric. See Anti-Pill Finish.

Pique Knit

A knitting method that creates a fine textured surface that appears similar to a waffle weave. Commonly used for polo shirts.

Pit Zips

Zippers placed in the armpits of a jacket to be used for quick ventilation.

Placket

The part of the shirt or jacket where the garment fastens or buttons together. Types of plackets include: reverse (generally a ladies styles in which the buttons are on the opposite side of a men’s garment), open (in which there are no buttons or fasteners) and decorative (non-functioning).

(Click here to see samplples of shirt plackets.)

Plated Knit Construction

Plating is a knitting technique that uses two different colors of yarn. There is a main color yarn and an alternative color yarn. The two yarns are knitted with the alternative yarn behind the main color yarn.

Pleat

A flat usually narrow fold made in a piece of cloth by pressing or sewing two parts of the cloth together.

Ply

Two or more yarns that have been twisted together.

Polyester

A strong, durable synthetic fabric with high strength and excellent resiliency. Low moisture absorbency allows the fabric to dry quickly.

Poly-Filled

A warm polyester lining found in the body or sleeves of outerwear.

Polypropylene

A very light, highly resistant, thermoplastic resin used to make coatings, packaging and fabrics.

Polyurethane Coating (PU Coating)

A finish commonly used in winter jackets, rainwear and windwear to offer high performance water resistance, while maintaining the garment’s breathability.

Ponte Knit

Ponte knits have the forgiveness of a knit, but the versatility of a woven. They’re very stable with a nominal amount of stretching capability.

Popcorn Pique

Alternating rows of baby pique knit and a larger pique knit that resembles small circles knit closely together.

Poplin

A tightly woven, durable, medium-weight cotton or cotton blend made by using a rib variation of the plain weave which creates a slight ridge effect.

Port Pocket™ Access

A zipper entry pocket that allows the garment to be hooped and embroidered without impacting the inside lining of the garment.

(Click here for examples with port pocket access.)

Posi-UV™ Pro (Sport-Tek)

High-performance tees and polos that deliver a UPF rating of 50, include PosiCharge color-locking technology and wick moisture.

PosiCharge® Electric Heather (Sport-Tek)

With a strong all-over single-dye heather pattern, PosiCharge Electric Heather Fleece is the first high-performance fleece to incorporate Sport-Tek’s popular bleed-resistant, color-locking PosiCharge technology. The PosiCharge Electric Heather pattern is also available in t-shirts and soft shell jackets.

PosiCharge Mesh®

Water-soluble dye process that breaks apart, or ionizes, in the dyeing solution to give off a positively charged colored ion. The cationic ions dye the polyester fibers by linking with the acid groups on the fibers - locking in the color. This results in a better, bleed-resistant, colorfastness.

PosiCharge® RacerMesh® (Sport-Tek)

Ultra-fine 100% polyester flat back mesh that offers unparalleled breathability. PosiCharge technology locks in color and keeps logos crisp.

Pre-Shrunk

Fabrics or garments that have received a pre-shrinking treatment.

Princess Seams

Short, stitched folds that taper to a point, typically used to shape women’s garments.

Print Pro® XP Process (Hanes®)

A fleece knitting process developed by Hanes that creates a tighter knit for a better printing surface.

Prism (BELLA+CANVAS)

99/1 Airlume combed and ring spun cotton/poly, 32 singles. A heather created with a darker polyester thread, the dimension is undeniable and brings a unique coloring, almost a vintage or garment-dyed look to the fabric.

PVC

A polyurethane coating that is added to make garments water resistant.

Quilting

A fabric construction in which a layer of down or fiberfill is placed between two layers of fabric, and then held in place by stitching or sealing in a consistent, all-over pattern.

Raglan Sleeves

An athletic cut sleeve set with a diagonal seam from the neck to the underarm. Offers more freedom of movement in comparison with set-in sleeves.

Rain Defender® (Carhartt)

Carhartt’s durable water repellent used in outerwear.

Rapid Dry™ Technology

Designed with a unique weave to wick away moisture from the body.

Rayon

A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters or other vegetable matter, with a soft hand. Frequently used for shirts and pants.

Rental-Friendly

Industrial-strength fabrics designed to withstand the rigors of apparel rental programs.

Repreve® Polyester (Allmade)

The 50% polyester from recycled plastic water bottles in Allmade Tri-Blend Tees. Each style uses an equivalent of up to 6 recycled plastic water bottles.

Re-Fleece™ (District)

These sustainable styles breathe new life into reclaimed materials with 100% recycled fabric. Affordable, comfortable and never re-dyed, it’s a fleece that just feels good.

(Re)Purpose™ Del Dia Collection (Cotopaxi)

All products in the (Re)Purpose Collection use repurposed fabric—durable, high-quality fabric left over from other companies’ production runs.

Re-Tee™ (District)

The affordable Re-Tee is 100% recycled fabric and never redyed, made from reclaimed material that otherwise could end up in a landfill. Soft. Comfy. High-quality. Doing good for the planet feels as good on the inside as it does on the outside.

Reverse Coil Zipper

Unlike the basic coil zipper, a reverse coil zipper doesn't show its teeth from the front.

Reverse Placket

When the buttons on a placket are on the opposite side from a men’s garment. Commonly done on women’s styles.

Reverse Weave® (Champion)

Refers to the cross-cut grain direction in most of Champion’s fleece styles. By constructing garments with the grain of the fabric running horizontally, it reduces shrinkage in the length of the garment, creating a consistent fit over the life of the garment. Reverse Weave was patented in 1952.

Rib Knit

A textured knit that has the appearance of vertical lines. It is highly elastic and retains its shape. Commonly used for sleeve and neck bands.

Ring Spun

Yarn made by continuously twisting and thinning a rope of cotton fibers. The twisting makes the short hairs of cotton stand out, resulting in a stronger yarn with a significantly softer hand.

Rip-Stop Nylon

A lightweight, wind and water resistant plain weave fabric with large rib yarns that stop tears without adding excess weight. Often used in activewear.

Ruching

A French term which means to gather, ruffle or pleat the fabric.

Rugged Flex® (Carhartt)

Carhartt’s technology for ease of movement in their garments.

Rugged Professional™ (Carhartt)

Carhartt’s series of apparel and accessories engineered for people who need gear that resists wrinkles, repels stains and keeps its appearance while retaining its color wash-after-wash.

Running Stitch

A stitch that is spaced equally, with the underside stitching being half the length of the external side.

R-Tek® Fleece

An exclusive lightweight microfleece with a soft, plush hand and an anti-pill finish to resist pilling. 100% polyester.

Sandwashed

A process in which the fabric is washed with very fine lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls, resulting in a softer fabric with a relaxed look and reduced shrinkage.

Satin Jersey (Alternative)

This fabric has the drape and stretch of jersey plus a luxurious satin wash that sets it apart from other soft cotton and makes it noticeably smooth and sleek.

Scoop Neck

Characterized by a deep, rounded neckline that is significantly deeper than normal necklines. Typically found on women’s shirts.

Sculpted Hem

A hem that is softly rounded for fashion detail and un-tucked wear.

Seam Sealing

The process of treating the stitch holes and seams of a garment to prevent leaking and to ensure full waterproof integrity.

Self-Fabric Collar

A collar that is constructed from the same material as the body of the garment.

Self-Fabric Sweatband

Refers to a panel of fabric at the front of a cap that is constructed from the same fabric as the crown of the cap.

Serge

An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of the fabric to prevent unraveling.

Series Performance (New Era)

100% polyester jersey with moisture-wicking and odor-fighting performance.

Set-In Sleeves

Most common style of sleeve, which is sewn into the shoulder seam.

Sherpa Fleece

A knit terry fabric that has been brushed and washed to raise the fibers for a fluffy, plush feel. The thick terry loops stay soft and absorbent over time.

Side-Seamed Tee

Side seam construction is the original, classic construction technique of t-shirt production. The tee is constructed with two large panels, for front and back sections. These panels are stitched together (forming side seams) to ultimately form the torso covering. Sleeves and collars are then attached to finish the shirt.

Side Vents

Slits found at the bottom of side seams, used for fashion detailing, as well as comfort and ease of movement.

Silk Touch™

Our silky soft 65/35 poly/cotton pique blend polo that is durable, wrinkle resistant and shrink resistant.

Silk Touch™ Performance

Our high-performance 100% polyester double knit polo that resists snags, wicks moisture and locks in color thanks to PosiCharge® technology.

Singles

A term used to indicate the diameter of a yarn. The smaller the number, the thicker the yarn.

Slash Pockets

A pocket in a garment to which access is provided by a vertical or diagonal slit in the outside of the garment.

Soft Shell

A fabrication that bonds an outer shell to a warm fleece or knit layer resulting in a breathable, flexible and comfortable jacket. All our soft shells have laminate for water resistance.

Soft Spun Cotton

Soft spun is an open-end yarn with more twist and a softer exterior to the yarn. The process generally helps lower torque and improve hand feel of the finished fabric.

Stain Release

A fabric treatment that helps a garment release stains in the wash.

(Click here to see stain release apparel.)

Stain Resist

A fabric treatment that helps spills and stains easily roll off the garment.

Spandex

A manufactured elastometric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking and will still recover to its original length.

(Click here for examples of Spandex apparel.)

Sphere Dry (NIKE)

A patented fabric with a raised bumpy surface that lines the inside of the shirt, which not only creates an appealing athletic-inspired texture, but also works like a funnel to draw perspiration from the inside out. The fabric's threedimensional construction also creates air space around the body to reduce cling.

Sport-Wick® Fleece

An anti-static fleece that provides moisture wicking by releasing moisture from the inner layers.

Stonewashed

A process in which the fabric or garment is heavily washed with lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls, resulting in a softer fabric with a distressed, weathered look and reduced shrinkage.

Storm Defender® (Carhartt)

Carhartt’s waterproof, breathable membrane used in outerwear.

Storm Flap

A piece of fabric that covers and protects an opening, usually a zipper, on an item of clothing. It is designed to add another barrier on more vulnerable parts of the clothing to protect against wind and moisture.

StormRepel® (Eddie Bauer)

A durable water-repellent (DWR) finish that sheds moisture so it doesn’t soak in.

Structured

A headwear term referring to a buckram lining used to control the slope of the cap.

Sublimation

A type of printing that uses sublimation ink, heat and pressure to transfer an image onto polyester fabric.

Sueded

A process in which fabric goes through a brushing process to raise the nap and give the garment a soft hand.

Sueded Cotton Blend (New Era)

A retro-inspired blend of 60/40 sueded ring spun cotton/poly that has amazing softness and a loft hand feel.

Super Heavyweight Fleece

A 12-ounce cross-grain heavyweight fleece. 80% ring spun combed cotton. 20% polyester.

SuperPro™ (Port Authority/CornerStone)

Hardworking woven shirts that repel and release stains while resisting wrinkles.

Super Slub® (District)

A unique thick-n-thin slub yarn that mingles super style with super value.

Taped Seams

A strip of fabric sewn to the seam of a garment to prevent distortion. In outerwear, taped seams aid in waterproofing.

Taslan

A durable and water repellent nylon fabric with a slightly shiny surface, used mainly in outerwear garments.

Teklon

A rugged, stronger Taslan nylon that is water repellent.

Tencel™ Modal (Allmade)

The 25% bio-based fiber sourced from renewable beech trees in Allmade Tri-Blend Tees.

Terra-Tek™ Nylon

Durable and water repellent with a matte finish.

Terry Velour

A pile weave cotton fabric with an uncut pile on one side and a cut pile on the reverse side. It has a soft, plush feel and is water absorbent. Commonly used for towels, robes and apparel.

ThermoBall® (The North Face)

The North Face® developed a partnership with PrimaLoft® to offer a synthetic alternative to down. ThermoBall® is a revolution in insulation technology. Unlike traditional, continuous-filament synthetic insulations, the small round PrimaLoft® synthetic fiber clusters closely mimic down clusters; trapping heat within small air pockets to retain warmth. Independent testing has shown that ThermoBall® technology can offer the low weight, loft, warmth and compressibility of down with the wet-weather insulating performance of synthetics. ThermoBall® has the warmth equivalent of 600 fill down.

ThermoBall® ECO (The North Face)

Made with post-consumer recycled content, ThermoBall® ECO is powered by PrimaLoft®.

Therma-FIT (NIKE)

Nike Therma-FIT is a double-brushed microfiber fleece that retains energy and resists heat loss. Nike Therma-FIT provides maximum insulation from cold and wind with minimal weight and bulk. It is ideal for any cold weather activities that require insulation.

Thumbholes

Openings at the cuffs so they cover the back of the hands and the palms for warmth and enhanced fit.

Tie-Dye

A method of producing patterns by tying parts of the fabric to shield it from the dye.

Triblend (BELLA+CANVAS)

50/25/25 poly/Airlume combed and ring spun cotton/rayon, 40 singles. You get the comfort from the cotton, durability from the polyester and the luxurious drape from the rayon.

Tri-Blend Performance (New Era)

A 50/38/12 poly/ring spun combed cotton/rayon blend that wicks moisture and has unbeatable softness.

Tricot

A knit fabric of various natural or synthetic fibers like wool, silk, nylon or polyester having fine vertical ribs on the face and horizontal ribs on the back.

Tricot Lining

A very lightweight nylon lining often used in shorts.

Triple-Needle Stitched

A finish commonly used on a sleeve or bottom hem that uses three needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching, giving the garment a cleaner, more finished look, as well as adding durability.

Tubular Collar

A collar knit in a tube form, so it has no seams.

Tuck-In Tails

A shirt constructed so the back hem is longer than the front. This aids in keeping the shirt tucked-in during normal activities. Tuck Stitch. Refers to the look of the knit where some stitches are actually under the other stitches. Gives the shirt a waffle weave texture and look.

Tulip Hem

Two overlapping pieces of fabric at the hem of a garment which creates the look of a tulip petal.

Twill

A fabric characterized by micro diagonal ribs producing a soft, smooth finish. Commonly used for casual woven shirts.

Twill Tape

Attached to the inside of the placket for a fashion effect.

Two Ply

A yarn in which its thickness is made up of two layers or strands, adding durability and weight. Underarm Grommets. Small holes in the armpit area to allow breathability and air circulation.

Unstructured

A headwear term referring to a low profile cap with a naturally low sloping crown. No buckram has been added to the crown for structure.

UV-Protective Fabric (UPF)

A term used to refer to a fabric that resists the ability of ultraviolet rays to penetrate the fabric. Protects the fabric from fading and the wearer’s skin from UV rays.

V Patch

A section of material in a V shape that is sewn onto a garment directly under the collar, providing support against stretching the neck opening. Also a style detail.

Vents

An opening in a garment which assists breathability and can aid in ease of decoration, allowing the garment to be hooped and embroidered with no visibility on the inside lining of the garment. Some vents are tacked down and are for fashion purposes only.

Vintage Slub (BELLA+CANVAS)

50/37.5/12.5 poly/Airlume combed and ring spun cotton/rayon, 32 singles. It’s knit in a certain way to give a really tonal texture. Since this fabric boasts an uneven surface and slightly sheer appearance, it creates really cool printed designs that give off that worn and vintage-vibe.

Vintage 50/50 (Alternative)

Alternative’s 50/50 fabrication feels unlike any you've ever worn before. Soft and loosely knit for a perfectly worn-in fit, it has a vintage-soft feel that gets better with every wear.

Waffle Knit

A square pattern knit into a garment.

Waffle Weave

A square pattern woven into a garment.

Washed Duck (Carhartt)

This fabric feels exactly like it sounds—Carhartt took their durable, classic duck and washed it for a broken-in look and feel. It breaks in faster than duck, and looks newer, longer.

Waterproof

Keeps outside moisture from penetrating the fabric. The waterproof rating is typically expressed in milliliters (1,000mm to 10,000mm) based on water pressure tolerance over a 24-hour period. Generally, the higher the rating, the higher the waterproof protection.

Water Repellant

A fabric’s ability to cause moisture to bead up and roll off a garment.

Water Resistant

Keeps the wearer dry in moderate wind and rain. Very breathable, allowing air to pass through while keeping moisture at bay. In extreme or extended conditions, waterproofing is a better solution.

WeatherEdge® (Eddie Bauer)

Reliable, breathable waterproof protection that is ideal for general uses and moderate activity. WeatherEdge® Plus laminate offers serious weather protection for those who demand high performance in a wide range of activities.

Weathered Twill

A special dye process resulting in a softer fabric with a weathered appearance.

Welded Pockets

The technique by which seams are affixed to one another without stitching.

Welt Collar/Cuffs

A single ply fabric with a finished edge that is used for collars and cuffs on sport shirts and short sleeve garments. Also known as flat knit.

Wind Fighter® (Carhartt)

Carhartt’s technology that tames wind. Used in outerwear.

WindWall® (The North Face)

WindWall fabrics greatly reduce the effects of wind chill while providing flexibility and breathability to stay comfortable without overheating.

Wind Shirt

A typically water and wind resistant outerwear piece. Popular for golfers.

Wind Resistant

The ability of a fabric to act against or oppose the penetration of wind or air, without being completely windproof.

Wickability

The ability of a fiber or a fabric to disperse moisture and allow it to pass through to the surface, so that evaporation can take place.

Wicking

Dispersing or spreading of moisture or liquid through a given area by capillary action in a fabric.

Women’s Fitted (District)

A fit that hugs the body at the bust, waist, hip and sleeve. Found in the Very Important Tee, Perfect Tri, and The Concert Tee. Size up for a less fitted look.

Wood Tone Buttons

Buttons that simulate a wood appearance.

Wool

Usually associated with fiber or fabric made from the fleece of sheep or lamb. The term wool can also be applied to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama or vicuna.

Woven

Fabric constructed by the interlacing of two or more sets of yarns at right angles to each other. Woven fabrics are commonly used for dress shirts and camp shirts.

Yarn Dyed

A term used when yarn is dyed prior to the weaving or knitting of the garment.

Yoke

A part of the garment fitted closely to the shoulders. Typically seen on the back as on a dress shirt, but may also be on the front, as on a Western style shirt.

Yupoong

Company that engineered the original Flexfit® hat.

Zipper Garage

A fold of soft fabric around the end of the zipper that helps prevent a scratched or irritated chin. Also known as a chin guard.

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